Archive for January, 2011



Bamfield is a world renowned diving location on the western coast of Vancouver Island, home to fishing and art communities in addition to the Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre. I first heard of Bamfield and BSMC from my comrade in arms and now marine biologist in training, Jess Shultz, who completed their CAUS Scientific Diver course in 2009 after we had returned from Afghanistan. All she could say to me was “Do This Course!” when I asked about it. Fast forward to end 2009, early 2010; I’m looking to improve my diving employment prospects and start to research around getting onto this fabled course of unbridled and scientifically fuelled awesome I’ve heard so much about. After some confusing messages from the university side of the show, I contacted BMSC directly after completing my Divemaster certification in Bali and was on route to being a Auditing Student.

BMSC Dive Boat Dock


A few quick notes before I get into the nuts and bolts of diving in Bamfield. I attended, as anyone can, as an Auditing Student for their CAUS Scientific Diver Level 1 course. As an Audit, I paid my tuition and funds directly to BMSC; but risked being bumped by an actual student had the course filled up. Aside from that, BMSC requires a certain number of logged dives in the last year and PADI Rescue Diver (or equivalent) for entry into the course. In addition, anyone, student or otherwise, planning to take this course should bone up on marine life identification for the Pacific Northwest. REEF offers a good package that is part of the course at BMSC, but a bit of prep never hurt anyone. I recommend this course strongly to anyone interested in the research, scientific, archeological, environmental or naturalist areas of diving.

Speeding Away


Down for a pint?


So… the diving. Official policy at BMSC is there is no recreational diving; however, there are several dive operation in the area that can take you out for some fun in Barkley Sound. This series will cover many areas that can be dove for fun, but where we dove for course. Like all dives in BC, this is cold water. Visibility can vary, depending on tide, proximity to shore, location in the sound and by how sunny it’s been. Dives near BMSC can be hit hard by algae blooms when the sun is out, so be wary, pay attention to your surroundings and ensure you follow safe practices. Some areas are influenced by wave action in the shallower depths (3-5m), so be careful around rocks and other potential hazards.

Our initial course dives occurred off the dock where the dive skiffs were moored, where we did skills assessments, fitness tests and later a rather interesting night dive. Following that we were off to Scotts Bay and our first bonafide training dives as we conducted roving surveys of marine life. Scotts Bay is a pleasant dive area, with some good rock formations, a mostly sandy bottom and a plethora of life. As we spent quite a bit of time there, it’ll be the first thing covered in part 2!


Looking up through the Wreck


In the last instalment of this short series, I’ll be covering the third (and often greatest) area of interest in Tulamben; the wreck of the USAT Liberty. The wreck itself has a fascinating history, being shot up by the Japanese in WW2 and beached by her crew, stripped by locals over the years and finally being rolled into the water when the volcano erupted in the 60’s. Now she rests underwater, a beckoning fun dive for all skill levels with it’s many occupants and open areas.

USAT Liberty wreck


Bumphead Parrotfish


The wreck is surprisingly open, and areas are easily entered and exited by divers without extensive training. That said, this is a feature not common to wrecks in general. The USAT Liberty has several wide open areas that are not enclosed or overhead obstacle areas. Other parts are more like a bit of a swim through. Situational awareness is still important though, as sea fans and Stinging Hydrozoans are common and can quickly turn a fun dive into an irritating first aid experience. The wreck is just, just suitable to do wreck training in, as it lacks truly enclosed spaces. As with any other wreck, be careful of the metal and structure, and leave it in shape for the next group of divers!

Sergeant Majors over the rocks.


The USAT Liberty is a home to a plethora of marine life. Great Barracuda, anemones, Maroon Clownfish, large blue Bumphead Parrotfish, various wrasse, Blacktip Reef Sharks, giant clams, and a variety of butterflyfish and groupers. The opportunities for photography and video are unbelievable. Given that the top of the wreck is in shallow enough water to allow for snorkelers to look it over, the USAT Liberty is truly a great wreck dive!

Great Barracuda guards the way.


The actual dive to the wreck is a simple one, suitable for any level of experience. It’s a shore entrance with a small stones followed by a short swim/dive over a gently sloping sandy bottom. At a maximum of 30m, with no current of note and warm water, it’s an easy go. Along the way you’ll see isolated coral growths, the odd anemone and it’s residents, random fish and if you’re lucky maybe a small school of fish. Once you’re at the wreck, a normal pattern is to go one side, the come back along the other. The dive is typically 35-45 minutes, depending on your air consumption. Even during the rainy season, visibility is good, and the water temperature is seldom below 25˚C.

Swim through!


Diving in Tulamben is, was and will be again, some of my best experiences underwater. Whether it’s been training or fun, Tulamben has provided great experiences and opportunities as a diver. If you’re in Bali, get ahold of Bali Scuba and get up there for some of the best warm water action you’ll ever have. While you’re there, try the Paradise kitchen’s grilled pork with a Bintang beer. It’s the perfect end to a day of perfect diving!