Category: Cyprus



So, there we were on the boat, headed to our next destination after thoroughly exploring the wreck of the White Star. The White Star was a small, non-enterable wreck, but home to some interesting creatures and an excellent photo op by the cyrillic name on the stern. Amphora Caves promised to be even more interesting, as it consisted of a series of shallow swim throughs and an oddity of nature. You see, at some point in the very distant past, a number of amphorae has been lost there, become attached to the porous stone native to the area and through wave action, tectonic activity and probably a dash of divine intervention, become attached to the ceilings of several of the swim throughs.

The terrain near Amphora Caves


Amphora Caves would set a new standard for shallow water dives in Cyprus for me. While still low on the marine life side of the show, it was breathtaking in the natural beauty of the location as we travelled from hole to hole over the shallow seabed. Great meadows of poseidon grass, clearings of white sand, tiny gulches and canyons with bottoms lined with well rounded stones. At a maximum depth of around 10m, I could have spent all day there if not for the constraints of tank diving. The swim throughs were fun, but are definitely not for the claustrophobic or panic prone. More than once I heard and felt the hard scraping of my tank against the ceiling, an unnerving sound if ever there was one. Despite that, I did every one of them, and even managed to get a few decent pictures of it to! Had I really been switched on, I would have used the movie function to to make a short video of the experience.

A touch cramped...


Odd rock formations in Cyprus.


Loving the experience, I signed on to do a guided dive the next day, my last day of activities in Cyprus before the flight back to Canada. Our goal was Church Bay, a short drive up the coast from Paphos proper. There were three of us on this dive, and definite camera presence, so the dive was slow, fun and filled with great chances to get good pictures. Church Bay itself is amazing, and has a strange swirl effect in the rock face around it. It was also the location where I saw the most life and had a chance for some great macro shots. The swim throughs here were much larger and easier to negotiate, but checking before entering is a good idea as some are actually small caves. Whiel there I saw the notorious Fire Worm, Hermodice carunculata, another member of the “don’t touch” list of marine life.

Hermodice carunculata


Much easier to move through!


Over all, Cyprus is a very good dive location. The atmosphere, people and food were excellent, and the Mediterranean sea is pleasant although very salty. There’s lots to do top side, lots in the water and can cater to a host of needs if you’re there with non-divers. The catch is that Cyprus, at least int he Paphos area, is very much a niche diving location. It won’t appeal to a large base of divers, but to those who like what it has to offer, it’s great. Abyss Dive Center and CyDive are both good organizations, and I recommend them both to people who may be in the area.

Ancient mosaic art in Paphos


Cyprus is home to a very old, very fascinating culture; and the birth place of Aphrodite to boot. Situated between Greece, Turkey, the near east and north africa in the Mediterranean, it is well placed for diving. The weather is pleasant year round, the water is cool but not cold, and the locals are fantastic. Of course, the cost can be a bit steep, but if you plan it out and watch for what area you’re in, it can be an affordable adventure. Be prepared for a few oddities though, for example, KEO makes pretty much every beverage you could want to drink, and chocolate cream filled croissants are a delicious if addictive between-dive snacks.

Mucking about near Amphora Caves


To be completely honest, if you’re looking for fish, turtles, or similar large marine life, Cyprus can leave you a bit disappointed. As the spearfishing capital of europe, Cypriot waters can be a touch on the bare side. If you’re looking for bizarre rock formations, awesome macro photography opportunities and surreal swim throughs, you’ve found a new stop over! Paphos was the location I was diving around, and we visited Sea Tunnels, Church Bay, the wreck of the White Star and Amphora Caves. Previously I said the water there was cool, 17˚C to 19˚C on average, which would normally see me in a 3mm or 2.5mm half suit. This is not advisable in Cyprus, as the rocks are jagged and sharp. A 5mm full suit is the least you want to be in the water with, just to avoid the abrasions of a shore entry in some areas, or scrapes from the swim throughs in other areas. Past that, most of the diving is in the shallow range, tending between 15m and 10m for maximum depth. My dives occurred in early fall and late spring respectively.

Why full suits are required!


Sea Tunnels was the “snorkelling” trip my friends and I went on during my first stint if post tour “decompression” (the army sent us to Cyprus to relax for a few days before sending us back to Canada), because we weren’t technically supposed to be diving. We went out with Abyss Dive Center. Since I was last there, they’ve had a few upgrades, and I’d recommend them even without them. Sea Tunnels is a series of great slabs of stone that have fallen or eroded into swim throughs. A great experience, although not for the claustrophobic at heart. It’s worth mentioning that a light can be handy in some of the longer swim throughs, and to watch out for errant scorpion fish, which have been spotted in the area.

Breathtaking Shallows


My next cyprian adventure came recently, in late April to be precise. Returning from a second go overseas, I once again found myself “decompressing” in Cyprus before being shipped home. Having rotated out with virtually no one I knew, I decided that underwater was a great place to relax and forget about the desert and scrub of Zhari District, so I immediately signed on for the snorkel trip and the dive trip. I had already exercised my archeological nerd tendencies last “decompression” with visits to ancient ruins and Aphrodite’s Bath. The snorkelling was fun, but only wet my appetite for more. Armed with my SeaLife DC1000, I wanted to really get some good pictures. This time I was going out with a group called CyDive, a nice operation with a good staff and fine taste in snacks between dive (seriously, tiny croissants with a cream chocolate filling… so good)

In Soviet Russia, ocean trawls You!


The wreck of the White Star was a soviet era fishing trawler scuttled off the coast. We never got a straight story on it, but it was never the less an interesting dive. We spotted some colourful wrasse and a very well camouflaged decorator crab, then it was up and over to Amphora Caves. To be continued…